My Fifth National Park in Utah

After hiking in Bryce Canyon, I decided to drive down to Zion National Park for the night since Zion is much lower in elevation and thus much warmer (a big plus when you live in a tent!).  I had the pleasure of driving through a good portion of Zion at sunset!  I was struck, yet again, by how the setting sun makes the already spectacularly gorgeous scenery of southern Utah even more striking.  I was also stunned to see how different the scenery of Zion was from Bryce Canyon even though the parks are only about 80 miles away from each other.  This is a phenomenon that really astounds me.  Southern Utah has five national parks that are all essentially lined up next to each along the bottom of the state.  It seems hard to believe that there are five separate spots in such rapid succession that are both magnificent enough on their own to be worthy of being set aside as a national park and remarkably different from the other parks nearby to warrant being a separate park.  While this is hard to fathom before you see it for yourself, let me assure you that all these parks are both stunning on their own and easily distinguishable from the other parks!  From my experience, Utah is the most stunningly beautiful and diverse state in the country!  It is truly spectacular!

After a most enjoyable (and warm) night of camping next to the river and getting a tip from a ranger, I headed to the Angel’s Landing trail head.  The trail starts off with a relaxing stroll along the river.  After a short while and a few twists and turns, the trail takes you up to and along a ledge of a canyon.  I especially enjoyed the textured rock along the trail in this section.  (If my travels have taught me anything, it is that I really enjoy rocks and the many diverse forms they come in!)  After this section, the trail becomes a series of steep switchbacks (which must have been a challenge to build).  After the switchbacks, the trail emerges on a ridge of rock with a great view of the canyon and river below!

 The next section of the trail that leads to Angel’s Landing is extremely steep and requires holding onto and pulling yourself up chains during some sections.  There are signs all over warning people that if they have even a hint of a fear of heights they should not continue.  I heard a few people hemming and hawing about whether they wanted to continue.  I kept thinking, “What are you waiting for?!?!  This is going to be incredible!!!”  Then I realized that given the same group of people and the prospect of going snorkeling, they would probably waste no time in strapping on the gear and jumping in the water, while I stood on the beach debating if the reward of the experience would be worth having to see the terrifying creatures I was sharing the water with.  After that realization, I was very glad that I have fallen in love with deserts, mountains, and canyons, where I will very seldom have to face my very bizarre, yet real fear of fish!  But I digress.   I continued up the trail that wound itself along (at times, the very edge) of a chunk of rock.  After snaking my way to the top, I had a wonderful view made all the better by the rush of endorphins produced by the semi-treacherous hike up!   The fantastic 360 degree view of the canyon gave me a chance to assess and enjoy the type of beauty that Zion has to offer.  From my assessment, Zion seems to be the most “traditionally” naturally beautiful.  What I mean by that is, that while there are tons of spots in the park that take your breath away, what you see doesn’t make you question if what you are seeing is real (like a gigantic and delicate free standing arch or a strange hoodoo does).

After hiking back down from Angel’s Landing, I headed to the tail along the Virgin River.  The trail leads you to the jumping off point to hike the Narrows (a “trail” that consists of hiking in the river through the slot canyon!).  It was too cold to hike the Narrows without a wetsuit, so I didn’t pursue that option (but I will in the future!!! . . .how amazing does that experience sound!?!?), but I very much enjoyed strolling along the river and peering as far as I could into the slot canyon from the safety of the beach.  Canyons of all types have captured my heart, imagination, and sense of adventure lately.  I must say though, there is something especially intriguing about slot canyons!  The idea that it’s such a narrow space that it just looks like a slit in the earth from the top and the only way to see the spectacular beauty held within that crack is to hike into and through it is extremely captivating to me!

After having a snack on a rock in the river and dreaming about the journey along the narrow canyon, I headed to the Emerald Pools.  I hiked a fairly short and easy loop trail to see a couple of the pools.  The pools are little ponds of water that are created by the springs and run off from snow and rain at higher elevations.  The small waterfalls that supply the pools with their water were as beautiful as the small, green ponds were.  They were extremely peaceful spots!  The sound of running/moving water is always relaxing, and the experience in just that much more intense when you get to hear and witness that phenomenon when you are in the desert! 

While I had plans to do more adventuring in Zion, I woke up to a tent covered in frost and snow and a storm that was still going strong at higher elevation (where I wanted to my adventuring), so I decided to move on, but made a mental note that I had lots more to explore in Zion!     

Utah Just Keeps Getting More Amazing!!!

After my Moab farming adventure ended, I headed out to explore the rest of southern Utah.  I drove through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.  It is rugged, wild and stunning!  It was one of last places in the continental United Sates to be mapped and the vast majority remains remote and undeveloped.  (I would very much like to explore the canyons in this area and see the stunning beauty hidden in the cracks in the earth!  That being said, I’m hoping the next good friend I make has extensive canyoneering skills. . .should you know someone with these skills, send them my way!)

I continued on to Bryce Canyon National Park.  I got some quick advice about good hikes at the visitor center, then headed straight for the trails.  Just when I thought that Utah couldn’t get any more fantastically beautiful, I started hiking past the bright orange hoodoos of Bryce Canyon!  These rock formations are unlike any others I have seen.  They tend to be thin and stick straight up towards the sky. Unlike the rock formations in the Needles section of Canyonlands, these rock pinnacles seem to be a more sculptured.  It’s easy to look at the hoodoos and see forms that are familiar (just as you can gaze at clouds and see dogs or ice cream sundaes).  In fact, there is one section called the Queen’s Garden.  It looks so much like a magical palace and surrounding courtyard, that there was really no need to build Disneyland!   Just add a costumed Cinderella and the effect would be complete! 

I hiked a figure eight shaped loop through the canyon.  It was fantastic to get to start out above the hoodoos, hike down through them, walk along the canyon floor with them towering over me, and getting up  on a ridge that allowed an up close view of some and a bird’s eye view of others.  I was amazed by just how varied the rock formations were in the relatively small area that I covered!  The hoodoos at the beginning of the hike were bright orange, the formations in the Queen’s Garden had a lot of light pink and white, and windows section had a combination of white and orange.  I had the added bonus of getting to see many of these formations frosted with a layer of snow!  That fact made for some interesting hiking though.  Since I got there at the transition between winter and spring, the snow was in the process of melting, but had not completely melted yet.  This meant that half of the hike was spent hiking in a very wet mud that was the consistency of pudding and the other half hiking through snow that occasionally gave away beneath me and plugged me kneed deep into snow.  It certainly made an already captivating hike all that much more interesting!    

Bidding Farewell to Moab

On my last day of adventuring in Moab, I decided to go back to the Hidden Valley trail and take it all the way to the Moab Rim trail.  The first stretch of the trail goes straight up.  Then, it levels off and opens up to a “valley”.  At the far end of the valley part, the trail opens up to a fantastic view of mesas on three sides of you!  It was a particularly gorgeous day, so I found a perfect ledge and sprawled out to enjoy the view for a while.    

After my rest hour, I continued on the trail to the rim of the valley.  The view was amazing!  I was surprised by how populated Moab appeared from above!  While a population of 5,000 doesn’t sound or feel like a lot of people, when you get a bird’s eye view of the evidence of 5,000 humans all crowded together in a relatively close space, it suddenly seems like a huge population.   This is especially true when the majority of the rest of the landscape around you is almost entirely devoid of human inhabitants!  After getting over the shock of just how bustling this lovely little town is, I took quite a while to relax and gaze at the town and the astonishingly magnificent vistas surrounding it.  It was the perfect way to say farewell to Moab.

When I was finished hiking, I had some extra time before I needed to be back on the farm, so I decided to drive on the road that follows the Colorado River.  I had been down a portion of the road before to get to a trail head, but this time, the drive was the whole event, so I was able to truly enjoy just how amazingly beautiful the sights were!  I continued to drive up into the mountains for a while (until I was passed by five enormous snow moving machines, which I took as an indication that my little car probably would fair too well, if I continued too much further).  There is just something about the combination of mountains, rivers, and strikingly strange rock formations that is totally magical to me!  As I worked my way back towards town, I stopped to stroll next to the Colorado River, which really is a remarkably beautiful and powerful river!  I took a moment to wade the frigid water for a bit, and then I headed back to the farm to prepare for my next adventures.     

A Last Few "To Dos" at Arches

Hiking in the
Devils Garden 

I decided to go to Arches to hike the entire Devils Garden Loop Trail.  I followed the main part of the trail to Dark Angel, which I hadn’t made it to before.  It is easy to see how the large, dark, rock pinnacle, that’s off by itself, got that name!  Then, I continued along the primitive trail.  This section of the hike was particularly enjoyable!  You hike down among some of the rock formations you see from the rock fin that you hike on during the first half of the journey.  I love being down among and surrounded by the rock formations because it gives me a chance to be more aware of the massive scale of the rock formations!  So beautiful and unusual! 

Dark Angel 

After hiking in the Devils Garden, I headed to the Delicate Arch trail head.  Delicate Arch is the arch that appears on most signs and even on the Utah license plate.  It’s particularly beautiful at sunset, when it glows and brilliant orange color.  I hiked the trail when I was here in September, and remembered it being moderately difficult, so I gave myself a generous amount of time to cover the trail before sunset.  Well, I guess all the hiking I’m doing these days has gotten in shape because this time, the trail seemed like a walk in the park and took almost no time at all!  That being said, the impact of rounding the corner and being confronted with an enormous arch that is perched right on the edge of a canyon was no less extraordinary than it was in the fall!  As with all the trails and overlooks this time of year, there weren’t a tremendous amount of people at the arch, so I had a chance to spend some time next to and under the arch, which was a treat!  I found a fairly sheltered spot to relax while I gazed at the wildly impressive sight before me and waited for the sun to work its magic. 

Hiking on the primitive trail 

Delicate Arch
as viewed through
Frame Arch

Any arch is impressive in its own right, but Delicate Arch truly outstanding!  It’s larger than you can possibly imagine.  The fact that it’s freestanding and perched right on the edge of a canyon makes it even more amazing.  Then there’s the fact that one portion of the arch is balanced precariously on a small point that is eroding away.  As you sit and really look at the arch, it becomes clear that there are cracks all over the arch, which makes the magnificent sight seem even more precarious and remarkable.  Just when you think there’s so way it can get any cooler, the sun starts sinking in the west, and the entire landscape starts to glow!  There are no words or pictures that can truly do it justice!  It’s totally marvelous!    

Delicate Arch!

    

Mill Creek

Sarah, Pete and I decided to hike along Mill Creek.  Chris had recommended this hike to us, so we were excited to see what he had been talking about.  We hiked along the creek, crossing it several times.  As we got farther down the path, the area opened up to a larger, grassy area with fantastic views of both the creek and canyon walls in the distance.  We kept going until we got to a point where the creek meanders its way through smaller spaces between larger expanses of slickrock.  It is a particularly beautiful section of the creek!  We decided to take a break there to enjoy the spectacular beauty.  Just as we were getting ready to settle into a spot on the creek, we saw some petroglyphs on a rock not too far away.  We went to investigate and found a rather stunning display of rock art!   

Skiing, Dwellings, and Bridges

Durango Mountain

After farming on Saturday, I headed over to Durango to meet my Uncle.  We had most delicious dinner and saw some live music.  Then, the next morning, we headed up to Durango Mountain to go skiing.  It was a ton of fun!  We found this fairly long and steep run that, at the beginning of the day was mildly terrifying, but by the end of the day was a blast!  We also had an adventure when we took a wrong turn and found ourselves having to ski through a little section of moguls with a fair amount of straw-like grass sticking up through them.  The whole day was a blast, and full of breathtaking views of the mountains! 

Hovenweep National
Monument 

The next morning, we decided not to go back because the wind was really strong and it was supposed to snow.  Instead, we went and got breakfast in town.  The waitress did not approve when I ordered two pancakes.  She tried to warn me against it, but seeing as I’ve been talked out of ordering a given amount of food in the past and then ended up stilling being hungry at the end of the meal, I went with my original order.  As it turned out, my newfound ability to eat enough for a small nation made short work of those pancakes! 

Hovenweep National 
Monument 

After our ten pounds of pancakes, my uncle and I parted ways.  I headed to the Colorado-Utah border to see Hovenweep National Monument.  The monument contains the remains of several Ancestral Puebloan dwellings.  Most of the buildings were built between 1230 and 1275.  The buildings are round, square, and “D” shaped.  Unlike Mesa Verde, these structures are not built into a cliff.  They are freestanding structures.  Most of the buildings are on the rim of the canyon, but a few of them were in the can shaped.  Unlike Mesa Verde, these structures are not built into a cliff.  They are freestanding structures.  Most of the buildings are on the rim of the canyon, but a few of them were in the canyon.  They are beautiful, well-constructed buildings in gorgeous setting.  It’s amazing to set to stroll through an environment so full of history and mystery!  It is so powerful to get to see ancient structures in their natural environment rather than in a museum! 

After leaving Hovenweep, I headed to Natural Bridges National Monument.  This was the first national park area in Utah.  The monument has three natural bridges.  From my understanding, natural bridges are a type of arch (it’s similar to the concept that all squares are rectangles, but not all rectangles are squares).  Natural arches are usually formed by a river that erodes away hollow part of the bridge.  They also tend to be a lot more symmetrical than arches.  The monument is fairly small and easily viewed by stopping at the several overlooks along the scenic road.  The bridges are situated in a gorgeous canyon that was made even more striking by the stormy skies.  I stopped to take a short hike to see the Horse Collar Ruins, which has two sections of structures built into an alcove in the canyon wall.  I continued along the road, stopping to gaze at the bridges and the canyon.  I decided to take the very short hike down to see Owachomo Bridge.  It is extremely large and impressive!  It’s the oldest and most well-developed of the bridges in the park.  While it was quick stop, I’m certainly glad I got the chance to see these bridges!        

Natural Bridges
 National Monument 

Natural Bridges
 National Monument 

Peas and Spinach

compost

My second full day of farming in Moab was totally beautiful!  I could really get used to February days being so sunny and warm!  We started the day by building a new compost pile.  Once we got into the rhythm of it, it was rather enjoyable.  Our next task was to get a row in the field ready to plant in.    First, we spread out two carloads of compost on top of the soil.  Then, Chris came and tiled the row.  Our next step was to spread out some fertilizer, then mix it into the soil with rakes.  After we raked the row fairly flat, we took this large roller with a handle and squished the dirt down with it.  Then, after marking where each row would be, we were ready to plant!  We planted two rows of spinach and two rows of peas (with three types of peas in each pea row).  After planting, we got the watering mechanisms set up.  Then, we put a bunch of metal hoops along the row and covered it with a piece of cloth to protect the row from the low night temperatures.  It was really fun to get to be part of the process of going from having a section of field that is not ready to be planted on to the point when it has four rows of seeds in it!  

An overwintered row of spinach

Hiking in the Footsteps of Pioneers and Criminals

Capitol Gorge Trail

After camping near the Freemont River (which was fun, yet a little strange to be camping under large trees and on lush grass in the middle of the desert), I headed down the scenic drive and continued onto a dirt road that led to the Capitol Gorge trail.  This was the trail that the pioneers first cleared the boulders out of, and then drove their wagons across.  The trail is a fairly narrow path between two impressively tall and sheer canyon walls.  It was amazing to get to walk the same path they took and imagine what it was like for them.  A short way down the trail you get to the Pioneer Register.  This is where the pioneers would stand on their wagons and carve their names into the canyon wall.  I enjoyed gazing at these names from so long ago and imagining what their stories were.

Pioneer Register 

On the trail to Cassidy Arch

After walking in the pioneers’ footsteps, I headed back to the scenic drive and found another dirt road that took me to the Cassidy Arch trail head.  This arch was named for Butch Cassidy because it is rumored that he used the Grand Wash as a hideout.  The hike was beautiful and full of great views of both white and red rock formations.  There was also one section of reddish-orange rock that was rolling and full of tiny holes.  So unusual and beautiful!  At the end of the hike, I was confused because I couldn’t find the anymore cairns, yet did not see the arch either.  Then I looked down and there it was!  The hike ended up on top of the arch! 

Cassidy Arch

After hiking, I drove around the park a bit, just soaking up the gorgeous and unusual scenery.  It is easy to see why it was named Capitol Reef.  You really can tell that it used to be the sight of an inland sea!  It really does look like an ocean that was frozen and fossilized.  A fossilized sea, how strange and cool!                 

Hiking High

Hickman Bridge

I had an extended break between farming days, so I decided to head over to Capitol Reef National Park.  I got up early so I would have the majority of the day to hike in the park.  As a result, I was treated to a gorgeous sunrise that enhanced the already scenic drive.  When I got close to the park there was a sign that announced “Scenic Views Next 14 Miles.”  I can get behind a place that has to warn you about just how beautiful the next stretch is! 

On the trail to
the Navajo Knobs

I headed to the visitors center to inquire about the hiking situation in the park.  In my experience, there are three types of ranger reactions when you ask for hiking recommendations.  Sometimes you talk to a ranger that pretty obviously is not fond of the park that he/she is working in.  That ranger will usually give you a recommendation, but accompany it with several negative comments.  Other times you get the ranger who is just in a rhythm of telling every visitor the same thing.  You still get some good ideas, but no real insight.  Then, sometimes you meet a ranger who loves the park and sees that you are prepared to do the necessary exploring to fall in love with it as well.  That ranger gives the best and most valuable advice!  I was lucky enough to interact with one of those rangers at Capitol Reef!  With her fantastic advice in my mind and a trail map in hand, I headed to the first trail head.

On the trail to 
the Navajo Knobs

I started off with the shorter, easier trail to Hickman Bridge.  The trail starts off right next to the Fremont River.  It was a little strange to be hiking right next to a fairly large river after being in such an arid environment for so long (and being a thousand feet above the rivers that do exist there).  As a result, Capitol Reef was much greener and full of vegetation than the other areas I’ve been in lately.  On the way to the bridge, there were remains from a grain storage structure nestled into a nook in the sandstone! 

On the trail to 
the Navajo Knobs

After arriving at and taking a break under Hickman Bridge, I continued along the loop.  When I got back to the branch in the trail, I took the Rim Overlook Trail that the ranger had recommended.  The views got better with every step!  At the beginning of the hike, the views were made up of large, white, dome-like rock structures, which were complimented by the snowcapped mountains in the distance.  There was also a great overlook above Hickman Bridge.  As I continued on the path, red rock formations were added to landscape.  By the time I got to the Rim Overlook, I had a fantastic vantage point to observe the red rock formations, the white domes structures, and the rich green of the valley.  The combination of all these colors and features was spectacular!  The trail continues for another two and half miles up to another overlook.  Up, being the operative word in that sentence, you end up gaining over 2,000 feet in elevation during the hike.  The ranger had told me that the views just kept getting better as you keep going, but she also mentioned that it is quite a steep hike (I believe her exact words were that “It can become quite a trudge.”).  At that point, thought the views were so magnificent and unlike anything else I’ve ever seen, that it made the choice to continue a no brainer (also, a little extra physical activity has never been a huge deterrent for me).  So, on I went. 

On the trail to 
the Navajo Knobs

View from the top! 

As I got higher, the wind got significantly stronger.  Apparently, south-east Utah has a tendency to get incredibly windy in the spring.  It’s really a small price to pay for the incredible weather and scenery!  However, I could have lived without it on this particular day.  The wind was so strong that I my hat was blown off my head (and luckily into a bush and not over the side of the cliff), and then, the wind started to blow me around a bit.  Well, not as if I was going to become airborne, but it definitely did push me around a bit.  As a result I had to stay a significant distance away from the cliff edges, and it also meant that I could only stay still to enjoy a view for a short while. I guess this just means that I’ll have to come back on a calmer day and take this hike again . . . gee, darn!        

View from the top! 

Again, the views just kept getting better!  Slowly, I gained a bird’s eye view of the reds and browns of the canyons off in the distance in addition to still being able to see all the other elements of the landscape.  As I slowly (yet steadily) made my way along the edge of the canyon, I kept seeing high points that I was sure would be where the overlook was.  But no, I kept marching right past those points.  As it turned out, the overlook was on top of a rock formation called the Navajo Knobs, which is the highest point in that section of the park.  After very carefully climbing up on top of the rocks, I wedged myself into a crevice on the Navajo Knobs (so as to prevent the wind from turning my euphoric moment into a tragic one), and reveled in the splendor of the outstanding views I had on all 360 degrees of me!  This was absolutely the best hike I have ever taken in my entire hiking career!  It also resulted in the biggest rush of euphoria I’ve ever experience as a result of hiking (which is saying something)!!  Incredible!!!  Completely and utterly incredible! 

View from the top! 

Hiking to the Middle of Canyonlands

Hiking on the
Confluence Overlook
Trail

I headed down to the Needles section of Canyonlands with two potential hikes in mind.  By the time I got to the park, I still hadn't decided on which hike I wanted to take, so I decided to go on the one with the trail head that is closer to the entrance station.  I started hiking, but after about twenty minutes, I had a hard time finding the cairns, so I took it as a sign that I should be taking the other hike at that particular moment in my life.  I retraced my steps and headed to the other trail head. 

Hiking on the
Confluence Overlook 
Trail

Boy am I glad that I kept losing the other trail!  The hike to the Confluence Overlook was spectacular!  The trail was delightfully challenging and scenic.  There are several sections when you are hiking in an open, grassy area surrounded by amazing rock formations in the distance on every side.  There are also several portions when you have to climb up and over a ridge to get to the next open area.  When you are up on the ridge, you get a bird’s eye view of the spectacular scenery all around you!  Plus, it’s fun to wind your way along the massive sections of slickrock!                 

The Confluence Of
the Green (left) and the
Colorado (right) Rivers

For the last mile of the trail, the hiking trail follows the four wheeling trail.  It was strange to imagine driving through this fairly remote section of the park.  I’m sure it’s a spectacularly enjoyable activity for some, but, for me, there is something about covering the ground on my own two feet and with my own energy that enhances the experience.  It allows you to become part of the landscape and soak it in with every sense.  I don’t think I would ever want to give up that part of the experience. 

The Colorado River
and a view of the Maze

The last section was especially fantastic!  After climbing up a steep section of the trail, you hike towards these large boulders.  Then, when you get past the boulders, you suddenly have a stunning view of the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers!  The rivers are a thousand feet below.  It is powerful to realize that those rivers carved the deep canyons you are looking at (and are continuing to do so)!  The two rivers are fairly different in color, so you can really see them come together and slowly become one! 

Colorado River
and a view of
Island in the Sky

This spot is also especially enjoyable to see because it is the spot that divides the three sections of the park.  The Island in the Sky section is bordered by the Green and Colorado Rivers before they come together.  That section of the park is up on a high mesa (thus the name), which gives you a chance to look down and over a good deal of the rest of the park.  The Needles section is bordered by the Colorado both before and after it comes together with the Green River.  It is the south-east section of the park and has an abundance of rock pinnacles and several canyons.  The Maze section is in the south-west portion of the park and is the most remote.  You have to take some pretty rough four wheel roads to get to the hiking trails, and those hiking trails are notoriously difficult.  It is named the maze because when you look at it from above, the cliffs and canyons look like a large, extremely rugged maze.      

Looking at the
Maze (on the right),
 a small section of
the Needles (on the left),
and the Colorado River
(in the Middle)

I lingered at the spot for quite a while.  It was amazing to get to see such an important spot in a park I love so much!  I really enjoyed getting to see part of each of the sections of the park at once!  It was also yet another great opportunity to marvel at just how powerful the forces of nature are!  So beautiful and awe-inspiring!