Monday, September 26, 2011

A Grand Time in the Grand Tetons!


Flaming Gorge

After leaving Rocky Mountain National Park I headed north towards Wyoming.  Then I proceeded to drive across almost the entire southern part of the state.  It was a beautiful drive!  The landscape was a combination of the Rocky Mountains, the rolling plains of Oklahoma, and the beautiful dessert rock formations of Utah.  I decided that it was about time for a shower, so I check into a hotel with plans to go explore Flaming Gorge after procuring a room.  However, I was struck by the splendid comfort and of being inside with so many modern conveniences, so I skipped adventuring for the evening and savored the luxuries for the evening.    

The path into the mountains!
The next morning, I drove around Flaming Gorge. . .it’s quite ruggedly beautiful!  Then I proceeded to weave my way through Wyoming, Utah, and the very edge of Idaho as I made my way towards Grand Teton National Park.  After driving through a little corner of the park, I found my way to the visitor center.  I am pleased to report that the atmosphere of Grand Teton Nation Park is similar to that of the Needles section of Canyonlands National Park.  The rangers are more than happy to give you tips as to where to explore and recommend hikes, and then, they turn you loose to go adventures on your own and at your own risk.  Then, you get to go explore the fabulously beautiful wilderness teaming with wild animals at your own pace!    

Holly Lake
(site of my campsite in
the back country)
My first adventure was a two day, one night, backpacking loop.  The first day, I hiked a little over eight miles up to a serene mountain lake.  The lake was totally still and calm except for a few ripples when the wind stirred, this amazing stillness allowed the water to reflect the rugged and strikingly tall mountains all around it! Now, I’m sure you’re thinking, “Of course they’re tall. . .they’re mountains!”  But, unless you’ve seen them you don’t understand.  The Rockies are amazingly tall too, but you don’t really get a chance to see or comprehend just how tall they are because they are totally surrounded by other mountains (after all, even the foot hills are really foot mountains).  At the Grand Teton, however, the mountains and the foot hills are spread out, and the space between them is fairly low and flat.  As a result, you get a chance to see mountains shooting straight up from the ground!  This allows you to see and attempt to understand just how huge and impressive a mountain really is!

My very large friend!
 After setting up in a spot with an incredible view of the mountains and securing the rest of my gear in the bear locker, I headed for a large rock situated on shore of the lake.  I sprawled out on said rock and proceeded to alternate between gazing at the incomprehensible beauty all around me and dozing.  After dinner, I got into my tent to read for a while when I heard an unusual noise.  It kind of sounded like a cross between moaning and grunting.  I decided to check it out.  As soon as I rounded the corner, I saw a moose!  A huge, male, moose with gigantic antlers (and well, to be honest, gigantic everything!).  I stood there for a while and checked him out while he checked me out.  After he lost interest in me, he walked down to the lake and had a good drink.  He even scampered (almost running) along one side of the lake.  I don’t know how he pulled off that scampering. . .I’m not even sure how he pulled off the walking or staying upright and balanced for that matter!  Moose are tremendously top heavy creatures and when you throw those antlers into the mix, I don’t know how any of them can move at all on those long, skinny legs without tipping over! 

View of the mountains just
over Indian Paintbrush Divide 
The next morning I thought I heard my moose friend again.  After briefly surveying the scene and not seeing him, I continued to pack up my stuff.  I went back to my rock by the lake for breakfast.  As I was munching away, I looked out across the lake and saw the moose!  We enjoyed each other’s company for the remainder of breakfast, then we parted ways.
               
The next three miles of the journey were straight up!  I made slow but steady progress.  I was a little wary of crossing the first snowfield I got to.   The snow was very solid and rather slippery.  I was very careful to make sure I didn’t slip and slide down the steep snow bank, partly because it was rather dangerous would most likely have resulted in an injury of some kind, and partly because I had worked quite hard to climb up the mountain and didn’t relish the idea of having to do it again.  After making it safely across the snow and finding the path, I continued up and over the mountain.  That’s right. . .I  climbed up and OVER and mountain range through Indian Paintbrush Divide!  When I got over the ridge, I was greeted by the most beautiful canyon carpeted in an array of the most spectacular wildflowers I have ever seen!  They were brilliant blue, purple, yellow, white, and orange!  After zigzagging my way down the side of the mountain, I got to Lake Solitude, my favorite mountain lake so far.  It was another amazingly calm lake situated at the foot of the mountains.  It was totally surrounded by a meadow of wildflowers and had an especially magnificent view of the mountains at the other end of the canyon.  I found the perfect spot with a view of it all and had the most spectacularly perfect lunch hour of my life!  This was all complimented by the fact it was the most beautiful, sunny, 75 degree day ever with the bluest sky I have ever witnessed! 
Lake Solitude (a small preview of heaven)

After lunch, I continued hiking in the canyon for several hours.  There were wildflowers and bubbling streams and waterfalls along the entire length of the path!  Eventually, I got into the woods, then slowly worked my way out of the canyon and around to the other side of the mountains.  The other side of the mountains was awash in brilliant fall foliage.  There were bright orange, red, and yellow leaves everywhere!  It was as if they were showing off for the first full day of fall!  The tail end of the hike worked its way along the edge of Jenny Lake.  I must say, this was the most difficult and most enjoyable solo backpacking trip to date! 

Amphitheater Lake
The next day was my last day as a twenty-seven year old, so I decided to send twenty-seven out with style.  I hiked a slow five miles up the side of a mountain to Surprise Lake and Amphitheater Lake.  I was able to have another perfectly peaceful lunch hour by the banks of Surprise Lake.  It was another beautifully sunny day and I found a lovely rock with a backrest to lounge on while munching and marveling at my surroundings.  For dessert, I continued a short distance to Amphitheater Lake.  It was amazingly clear and still!  I found the world’s most perfect rock; it was shaped like a beanbag chair with indents that seemed as if they were designed exactly for my body!  I settled into a lovely reclined position and basked in the sun and the beauty for quite a while!  After a most enjoyable and gorgeous retreat down the mountain, I went to the campground near Jenny Lake and procured a spot for the evening.  Then, it was time for dinner.  I was due for a warm meal that someone else cooked, so I headed to Snake River Brewing Company.  Shortly after sitting down, a lady came and sat next to me. We started chatting immediately.  It was quite wonderful to have someone to chat with!  The only part of my trip that I don’t really love is eating alone.  For me, sharing a meal with someone makes it so much more enjoyable!  So, it was lovely to have a lovely human to interact and drink beer with until my food came!  After enjoying a totally delicious stout and pizza, I moved on with my life. 
Surprise Lake

While walking to my car, I realized that it would not be prudent of me to start driving anytime soon!  So, I chatted with two of my dear friends and watched the sun start to sink down over the mountains.  It’s so lovely to be able to hang out with my favorite people even when we’re several states and time zones away!  
View of the larger, lower lakes on my way down the mountain

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